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Monday, October 15, 2012

The Burgers of Ann Arbor & Ypsi

Although there are some areas where Ann Arbor/Ypsi are lacking (there is an amazing dearth of Latin food), one food where there is no shortage is burgers. I make no apologies for being an all-out burger snob – if I’m going to use a day’s worth of calorie and fat allotment on some beef and cheese, I want it to be the real deal. While I would probably argue that the best burgers in the area are coming from my kitchen, there are more than a few solid options around town.

Sidetrack Bar & Grill
Great Plains Burger Co.
The relative newcomer to the burger scene is Great Plains Burger Co. on Plymouth Road in Ann Arbor near U of M’s North Campus. Great Plains’s burgers start as hand formed patties of fresh ground, locally sourced beef. The patties are smashed onto a hot griddle, which helps develop an amazing crust. The patties are served on top of a sizable toasted white bun. Toppings are all of your standard options plus a few things like fried egg and avocado.


On twitter, I described the burger as “frustratingly close to being great.” While I think it is a very, very good burger, it suffers from two main flaws: 1) The patties spend just a little too long on the hot griddle, causing them to come out a tad dry. The technique used to cook the burger is solid – smashing the burger initially helps develop that awesome crust, but once the burger is flipped, it should come off the griddle soon after. I watched the process last time I was there. The grillmaster was flipping the patties repeatedly and they spent a long time on the griddle. This is probably all in the name of health codes, but I’m sure they could get away with cooking the patties for 1 minute less, which I’m guessing would help things immensely. 2) The bun:meat ratio is too high. The patties are already a tad dry and the large buns exacerbate the issue. I like the buns, which are buttered and toasted, but they are just a tad too big for the single patty. A juicier patty probably mitigates this problem as well.

the crust on that patty is food porn-worthy
Burgers aren’t the only thing on the menu worth trying, the fresh cut fries are outstanding and the milkshakes are hands down the best around. The fries are thick and fried to order; though not the crispiest fry you will eat, they are damn good (I don’t think they’re twice-fried, which is why they don’t come out super crispy). There is usually a rotating tap of dipping sauces – Honey chipotle, Kentucky Bourbon, Carribean Jerk, Black Truffle, etc.

The only thing better than the fries might be the shakes made with Guernsey Farms Dairy ice cream. The shakes are super thick – as a shake should be – and served with a very wide straw, a touch that many shake places overlook. The only thing that could make them better is a variety of flavors. They only have chocolate and vanilla. What do I have to do to get a chocolate/peanut butter or vanilla/cookies’n’cream shake?



Sidetrack Bar & Grill


I have sung Sidetrack’s praises before as being one of the best craft beer bars around. This time the burgers come in for high praise. Typically, burgers that are advertised as being “Named Best Burger by” anything end up being a massive disappointment. Sidetrack’s burger had all the symptoms of overhyped burgers I’ve seen before – “As seen on Oprah!” “Named One of the Top 20 Burgers by GQ!” Having been sorely disappointed by several overly hyped burgers in the past, it was with a little trepidation when I ordered my burger at Sidetrack – medium rare with American cheese on a regular bun.


I can probably count on one hand the times in my life when I’ve ordered a burger medium rare and actually have it come out anything less than medium. Sidetrack nailed it though, perfectly tender and juicy. The bun was nothing extraordinary, just a standard white sesame seed bun, which worked just fine with this classic rendition of a burger. I really have no complaints, this burger was as excellent as they come. Maybe Oprah Gayle just knows her burgers.

Bagger Dave’s
Whereas Great Plains comes off as a burger joint run by a guy with a passion for good food, Bagger Dave’s comes across as a place run by a restaurateur trying to cash in on the burger craze. Honestly, everything just feels half-assed. The fries are supposedl fresh cut, but they don't seem like it. They are always under-cooked (I've actually tried to order them ‘well done/extra crispy’ with little luck). The burger menu offers a million toppings, which is probably due to the underwhelming patties, which are under-seasoned, overcooked, dry and bland. I’d be lying if I said I don’t stop in here from time to time when a craving hits and I don’t feel like driving across town to one of the better options.

Wurst Bar
Wurst Bar doesn't only do solid housemade sausages, they also have some solid burger offerings as well. The burgers at Wurst are fresh ground beef brisket that are dipped in umami sauces. Umami is the latest buzzword in the foodie scene and refers to the fifth basic taste, along with sweet, sour, bitter and salty. Umami is typically ambiguously described as the savory taste. The Wurst menu explains that the umami flavors come out best when the sauces are caramelized when the burger is cooked to about medium well. I decided to go with the Mr. Peanut burger topped with aged cheddar, bacon and crunchy peanut butter and followed the rules by going with medium well. 



The burger sounds like it shouldn't work, but the PB and cheddar come together in a sweet/salty combo that works with the pretzel bun. I didn't really pick up a savory boost with the umami sauce and would have just preferred a medium rare patty. Having said that though, the burger was still pretty tasty and I’d order it again.

Krazy Jim's Blimpy Burger
Here is the obligatory mention of Blimpy Burger. I suppose you can’t have a recap of the burger scene in the area and not include Blimpy. I’m not sure I have anything unique or interesting to add – everyone already has an opinion on Blimpy and I’m not trying to change any minds. Are the burgers the best I've ever had? No, but that isn't totally the point. I am usually not easily swayed by “environment”, but it’s tough not to like the scene at Blimpy – patties of beef being smashed on the griddle, old pictures of the annual snow carvings out front, framed calculations of the total number of mathematical combinations of burgers, patrons waiting patiently in line with trays in hand hoping not to be scolded by DaVee. I once saw her scold a super pregnant lady for sitting down while waiting in line (rule #2 at Blimpy Burger – don’t save seats). She nearly brought a 10 year-old girl to tears for reading Harry Potter and not paying attention when asked what she wanted from the grill. I've run in to old friends that I haven’t seen in years while waiting in that line.

The nostalgia isn’t the only draw at Blimpy though, the burgers are great and the fried veggies are even better – fried cauliflower is my fried veggie of choice. The beef is ground fresh and the onion rings are legendary. 

Other Burgers of Note
Grange usually has a burger on their menu and it is solid - the brunch burger with bacon jam and a fried egg is a can't miss. Quickie Burger is not as bad as you might think, given it is right on campus and open until 4am - I had a decent late night burger there one night when Mr. Spots was closed.

Although I didn't come across a perfect burger, I found some pretty good ones from people that clearly have a passion for burgers. The lesson learned is that a mediocre patty can't be saved by a plethora of toppings. With that, I'm off to go grab a burger. 

Got a burger joint I missed or somewhere else that makes a great burger? Let me know about it in the comments.

Great Plains Burger Co.
1771 Plymouth Road
Ann Arbor, MI
http://www.greatplainsburger.com/

Sidetrack Bar & Grill
56 E. Cross St.
Ypsilanti, MI
http://sidetrackbarandgrill.com/

Bagger Dave's
859 West Eisenhower Parkway
Ann Arbor, MI
http://baggerdaves.com/

Wurst Bar
705 W. Cross St.
Ypsilanti, MI
http://www.wurstbarypsi.com/

Krazy Jim's Blimpy Burger
551 S. Division
Ann Arbor, MI

1 comment:

  1. Why do you bother with this? Ain't nobody paying attention, my man.

    ReplyDelete